Some general common sense rules will help to make the task simpler and ensure the safety of the turtle in the new redecorated environment. Thoroughly clean every item that you place into the tank. Ensure that there are no pesticides on these items. Never use sharp items or items that the turtle can swallow. Place every item in such a manner that the turtle cannot get stuck on or near it.

It’s fairly certain that your turtle has no decorative style preferences, so those aesthetic choices will be left up to you. Regardless of what you add, it is possible that the turtle may decide to do some minor redecorating when you are finished, such as moving things around, or taking a chomp on a newly introduced plant.

Keep in mind; turtles love plants, not for decoration but for food. Plan on having most plants eaten or dug up over the long term. Don’t despair, however, you can keep plants growing in a separate tank and simply replace those that have been destroyed. Some turtle owners use the separate plant-growing tank to raise live turtle food like snails and small fish. Fake plants are also an option. They last for a long time. Safe artificial plants, made especially for aquariums, are available at most pet stores.

Never line the bottom of the tank with gravel. The turtle will swallow any pieces that will fit into his mouth. If a piece of gravel becomes lodged in the turtle’s digestive tract, he could die. Make sure that any rocks placed into the tank are no smaller than two times the size of the turtle’s head.

Shells add a nice touch, but keep in mind the turtle will most probably eat them. It’s alright to use durable plastics and ceramics in the tank, but avoid using anything made from glass as the turtles will undoubtedly break it. Remember, that you don’t want get so carried away with your decorative skills that the turtle no longer has room to swim easily around without bumping into something.

Don’t forget the land area when you redecorate. A few colorful large rocks add a nice touch. You can even paint them if you want to. Use epoxy paint to ensure that it is sealed to the rock. Don’t overdo the additions to the land area; this is the turtle’s Club Med. He needs room to enjoy basking in the light.

Most pet shops sell figurines that are suitable for placement in an aquarium. Some are cute, but my experience tells me that most people get a little carried away with them. I don’t ever want to see a two-inch tall deep sea diver at the bottom of my turtle’s tank, but then that’s just me. If you’re into figurines, there is varied selection waiting for you

The enjoyment of your pet turtle usually comes from simply observing its behavior. Careful responsible handling is critical to their fulfilling the promise of their expected longevity. If you’re bringing a pet turtle into a home with young children, make sure that they understand how to treat these interesting pets. With proper supervision, the turtle’s presence can offer a great opportunity to teach the children about responsibility.

Before you bring a turtle into your home, make sure that you can meet all of the turtle’s basic needs. Buy the biggest tank that you can afford (40 gallon minimum) to ensure that the turtle’s home is large enough. An aquatic turtle is going to want to spend most of its life in the water, along with a few hours each day basking in real or simulated sunlight. Make sure his habitat has enough swimming area and suitable land area to meet those needs. Ensure that the habitat provides enough light, shade, and clean water. A UV light is great; giving the turtle an opportunity to bask and absorb much needed vitamin D. A nice rock protruding above the waterline is great for basking in the light.

Because turtles are cold-blooded creatures, temperature control is very important. 80ºF is a good daytime temperature, which can be lowered by 10º at night. The turtle also needs a place to hide from your family’s well meaning intrusions, a little privacy. A small shelter can be purchased at a pet store, or you can easily make one yourself. Your turtle will occasionally go into the shelter for a little quiet meditation time.

Make sure you understand the turtle’s nutritional requirements. Most aquatic turtles are omnivores, land turtles tend to be strict vegans. You can check with your veterinarian for nutritional recommendations, which might include the regular administration of vitamin and mineral supplements.

Be a good housekeeper for your turtle. A clean habitat is a healthy one. Make sure that you clean out the tank at least once each week. This can be an excellent chore for the children once they learn to handle the pet responsibly.

When you remove the turtle from the tank, make sure that he is roaming in a safe place where he won’t get lost, trapped, injured, or harmed by other pets. With a little knowledge, regular care, good nutrition, and a comfortable healthy environment, your pet turtle can give you and your family virtual decades of pleasure.

Turtles live in fresh water, oceans, and marshes. Turtles spend most of their lives under water venturing out only to lay their eggs or bask for a while in the sun. When the weather becomes too cold they go into a state similar to hibernation. Turtles are omnivorous. They eat plants, insects, and fish. Turtles have light shells that are rather flat having only a slight crown, streamlined for efficient travel through water. Their feet are webbed for swimming. Although they are notoriously slow on land, they are very fast swimmers. Often kept as pets, turtles live to an average age of thirty years.

Tortoises spend most of their lives on land, venturing into water to drink or bathe. They are not good swimmers and can easily drown if caught in a swift current. Tortoises are, for the most part, vegetarians or herbivores eating plants with lots of moisture. Tortoise shells are heavy and dome shaped, providing excellent protection. Their feet are short and they have rugged legs. Some tortoises are quite fast on the ground, moving quickly when necessary. Tortoises have very long life expectancies, some living as long as 150 years. While some tortoises are kept as pets, they are not as popular as turtles.

If you are considering having a pet turtle, both land and aquatic turtles (tortoises and turtles) make interesting pets, but the aquatic turtles are generally more popular because their habitat is simpler to create and maintain, and the aquatic turtle’s space requirements are usually much less that a tortoise’s. It’s important that the pet turtle’s environment be as close to what he might experience in the wild as is possible.

If you have an aquatic turtle, a tank with both adequate water volume for swimming and eating and sufficient land area for resting is essential. The water is especially important, and should be filtered and maintained in the same manner as would be done for a goldfish aquarium. Land turtles will usually require a much larger area with access to enough water for occasional bathing. Smaller land turtles can manage is smaller terrariums, but many tortoises grow large enough to require a larger fenced in area outdoors.

As with any pets, clean water should always be available. Most aquatic turtles, being omnivores, will require both plants and animal protein from foods such as calcium-rich vegetables, snails, earthworms, and bugs. Tortoises, on the other hand, should be quite content with a purely vegan diet consisting of vegetables like carrots, berries, and leafy greens.

One of the most common problems that show up in a vet’s office is malnutrition. It is very crucial that your turtle receive the nutrients it gets from a balanced diet. For instance a turtle lacking vitamin a can develop abscessed areas usually in the ears. If a turtle does not receive enough calcium they can have an enormous amount of problems. This is why it is crucial to have a proper UV light in the tank with an indoor turtle. Also be sure to replace the light after about 6 months when they lose their effectiveness. You can even get a black sharpy marker and write the date of purchase on the light so that you know when to replace it.

You should take your turtle to the vet for annual exam. During this exam your vet can examine the overall health of your turtle and review with you its environment and eating habits. It is not uncommon for a vet to work with you on a change of diet or a little adjustment in their living area. Additionally, your vet may take a stool sample to check for parasites and may give your turtle a de-wormer.

Some symptoms to look out for can include:
Swollen or goopy eyes: This can be a sign of a lack of vitamins found in a balanced diet. This is a very serious problem for your turtle and should not be ignored. These problems can only be treated by antibiotics and if you do not treat it, your turtle will die. This will not go away on its own. You should seek the care a veterinarian at the first sign of this problem.

Fungus: This is sometimes caused when a wound has been left untreated. It will look white or grayish and a little gooey. Most of the time a fungus can be treated with salt being added to the tank (1/4 cup per 5 gallons), or even an over the counter powder available at some pet stores. If the problem persists seek the help of a qualified vet. Baby turtles do sometimes look like they have a fungus, but often times it is the skin shedding. This does happen often in a turtles first year.

Respiratory infection: This is also common for turtles to get if the water is not cleaned or if they are not in a proper environment. The symptoms of respiratory infection is, they will breath with their mouth open, their will be bubbles coming out of their nose, they can make a weasing sound and often breathe with their necks stretched out. Although this disease is often treatable, gone untreated can lead to more problems and eventually death. Your vet can often give you an antibiotic to give them at home and it should not return if the environment is ideal for the turtle.